Winter in northern Iceland is the time to spot large pods of magnificent orcas feeding close to shore, but brutal weather means Kevin Rushby’s trip is almost a write-off. And then he gets very, very lucky
• Watch Kevin’s audio slideshow on killer whale-watching in Iceland
Wildlife guide Marie and boat captain Skarphédinn came down to the hotel that morning to apologise: “The trip is postponed – the weather is just too bad, and tomorrow is going to be worse.”
It was almost noon and just light. We stood in the hotel doorway looking out to where the mountains should be. There was only a blank white wall. A snowplough emerged from it and lumbered past us. The temperature was -7C, spiced up by a 30mph wind blasting flurries of ice particles at anyone who dared go out.